• Manual For Jk Wrangler 2017 White

Jeep Wrangler JK Buyer’s Guide If you’re thinking about purchasing a 2007 to 2017 Jeep Wrangler, you’ve come to the right place. Buying a new or used vehicle can be an extremely stressful experience for some. While NADA and Kelley Blue Book can offer you guidance on a stock vehicle’s given market value, much of that can go out of the window when dealing with the Jeep Wrangler.

This is largely due to the tremendous amount of aftermarket wares typically adorned on a given Jeep. Known by many simply as the JK, the 2007 to 2017 Wrangler has been one of the most successful Jeeps ever produced, both from a sales and performance standpoint. A large source of the JK’s triumph is due not only to its modern amenities that its predecessors lacked (hello, power windows and power door locks!), but also the convenience and practicality that the four-door Unlimited version brings to the table. To help navigate you through your JK buying process, we’ve put together the hard facts that you should know before spending your cold hard cash. ENGINES 3.8L (2007-2011) Pre-2012, all JKs sold in the United States came with the 3.8L V6. Its power numbers are a bit underwhelming at 202 hp and 237 lb-ft of torque, but it’s livable when paired with the proper gear ratio to fit a given tire.

Some of the most common issues include burning oil, intake manifold gasket failure and cracked exhaust manifolds. We’ve seen these engines destroy piston rings and spin main bearings with as little as 100,000 miles, but there are plenty of high-mileage ones still on the road today. Not every 3.8L is going to be a dud, but prepare yourself for the worst, just in case. 3.6L (2012-2017) In 2012, Jeep did away with the mini-van sourced 3.8L and replaced it with the 3.6L Pentastar V6 that it still uses today. The dual-over-head-cam engine was a tremendous upgrade in power with 83 more ponies on tap.

The all-aluminum block is lighter than the previous engine and uses a more easily accessible canister-style oil filter that you can access at the top of the engine. The exhaust manifolds are now combined with the head, so you won’t have to worry about cracking as you did with the 3.8L. While 285 hp and 260 lb-ft of torque is a major improvement, this engine isn’t perfect. Like the 3.8L, the 3.6L has been reported to consume oil. While there was an issue with some of the heads on the first run engines, most of those have been addressed or recalled. TRANSMISSIONS 42RLE (2007-2011 Automatic) The 42RLE automatic transmission was only paired with the 3.8L on the pre-2012 JKs.

Its 2.84 First gear doesn’t give the Jeep much punch out of the hole, but that’s partly due to the fact the 3.8L makes power much higher in the rpm curve. Heat is the big killer of any transmission, and the 42RLE is especially susceptible to this when paired with oversized tires and additional strain (i.e. Towing or harsh off-road environments). To avoid problems with this transmission, be sure to gear the differentials with a higher numerical gears when adding on taller tires. Also, install an aftermarket transmission cooler. WA580 (2012-2017 Automatic) The big news in 2012 wasn’t just an all-new engine for the JK, but a new automatic transmission as well.

The WA580 is a five-speed automatic that got a First gear jump to 3.59. When coupled with the 3.6L, this makes the JK feel far more powerful both on- and off-road. Just like the 42RLE, an aftermarket transmission cooler and proper differential gearing will be critical to keeping the transmission in good shape. The WA580 is also known to handle V8 power.

NSG370 (All Years) If you like to row gears, the JK’s six-speed manual will keep you busy. The NSG370 is the only manual transmission JK option. The 4.46 First gear ratio offers great control for technical driving off-road. Torque limits of the NSG370 are north of 1,100 lb-ft, making it a stout option for the JK. Despite looking excellent on paper, the manual is known to grind, pop out of gear and make a little noise. Keeping it filled with the fresh fluid of the manufacturer’s recommendation will help to keep you shifting smooth for years to come. TRANSFER CASE All Years While you could purchase a two-wheel drive Unlimited JK in 2007, most Wranglers are four-wheel drive.

Splitting the power to the drive axles is either a New Venture Gear 241 or 241OR. The OR version is only found on the Rubicon models and is equipped with a 4:1 low range ratio instead of the regular 241’s 2.72:1 low range. Both transfer cases are chain-driven and use an aluminum housing. These T-cases are incredibly strong and can handle V8 power. AXLES All Years, Non-Rubicon On every non-Rubicon JK, you’ll find a high-pinion Dana 30 front axle up front.

This axle is plenty strong for running up-to a 35-inch-tall tire. The major drawback to the axle are the small axletubes and end Cs.

In stock form, the axle is fine. However, the axle is known to bend slightly when paired with oversized tires and more aggressive off-road driving. Beyond obvious signs of extreme tire camber, check to make sure the tires are not excessively chopped or worn more on the inside. With the exception of a handful of early JKs, most had a Dana 44 rear axle.

All Years, Rubicon Only The JK Rubicon is fit with axles specific to that model. It’s equipped with a high-pinion Next Generation Dana 44 front and NG Dana 44 rear. There are a few things that make the Rubicon axles unique, but the most important from a buying stand point are the Tru-Lok differential lockers.

This is an electronically controled selectable locker that acts as an open differential when not engaged. Only usable when in four-wheel drive, low range, the Tru-Lok differential “locks” when the button is depressed inside of the cabin. By locking the differential, you are making both wheels rotate at the same speed, which means you have a greater chance for finding traction. The NG Dana 44s also boast a larger axle-spline count (32 vs.

30) in addition to being much stronger up front when compared to the Dana 30. These axles can easily handle 35-inch-tall tires. Depending on your driving style and Jeep build, the axles can sometimes survive with 37s as well. The big downside for this axle is the same as the JK’s Dana 30; the axletubes are small, and Cs can bend. Bent Axle Options If you find that the Jeep's front axle is bent, all is not lost.

Companies such as and both offer upgraded replacement front housing that bolt directly into your Jeep. If your axle is in good shape, and you’d like to prevent it from bending, you can purchase an axle truss kit from companies such as that will help greatly reduce the likelihood of your stock front axle getting the bends.

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IS RUBICON RIGHT FOR ME? When it comes to trim packages and minor changes, there have been plenty over the years. From relocating the subwoofer in the cargo area to flipping the EVAP bracket over to create a makeshift skidplate, the JK is constantly being tweaked. For the most part, however, the bones of each are all the same. When it comes to trims, we like the Rubicon for ease of building. That being said, just because it's a Rubicon doesn’t necessarily mean it’s a better Jeep. First, let’s look at the actual valuable bits that make the Rubicon package so desirable: front and rear Next Gen Dana 44 axles with selectable lockers, a 4:1 low range transfer case, electronic and marginally helpful rocker guards.

Those are all items you’ll only benefit from off-road. If you honestly don’t see yourself hitting the trail anytime soon, a Rubicon isn’t worth the extra money. However, if you see yourself as a weekend ‘wheeler and want to start ahead of the curve, the Rubicon is the platform for you. Out of the box, there isn’t a more off-road capable SUV than a Jeep Wrangler Rubicon. 2 DOORS OR 4? Most of you will probably have your mind made up about whether the two- or four-door Unlimited model fits your budget and lifestyle the best. Mechanically, the two are virtually identical.

We will throw in our two-cents here and say that the 116-inch wheelbase of the four-door is absolutely wonderful both on- and off-road. The longer wheelbase adds stability, and the additional cargo capacity is great on the trail. We tend to favor the Unlimited, but we suggest driving both. MODIFIED JK Buying Used Don't be scared to purchase a JK already modified. Even if it's not exactly to your taste, often times it's easier and cheaper to buy a Jeep that’s already setup similar to. While you may be more drawn to the hardcore Jeeps since the components you're looking for may already be present, bear in mind these Jeeps may have seen a much rougher life than your neighbor’s mall crawler.

Do your research. If the seller list specific bumper types and suspension bits, Google them and figure how much the stuff cost, and don't forget to calculate in labor.

Manual For Jk Wrangler 2017 White

When possible, give it a once-over before you pull the trigger. Buying New Many Jeep dealers are aware that you want a modified JK but are worried about voiding the warranty, so they offer Jeeps already lifted that you can purchase directly through them and retain the warranty. This is an extremely attractive avenue for many, but proceed with caution. The premiums often accompanying certain bumper and lift packages by the dealer can be absurd; we're talking double and triple of what the component would sell for in the normal aftermarket.

This is another one of those times where it's 'buyer, beware,' and you need to do your research. INTERIOR 2007-2010 The early JK’s dash and overall interior is pretty simple and Spartan. We like the no-frills-feel layout, but many discover the look and feel of the early JK interior is a bit too rough. 2011-2017 If you’re looking for more frills and cabin comfort, you’ll want a 2011 to 2017 JK.

They have better seats, a better dash layout and softer touch points throughout. THE BEST YEAR For every person who asks what year JK he or she should purchase, we reply with a question of our own: Are you looking for a daily driver or a weekend trail toy? If the answer is daily driver, we always say look for a 2013 or newer JK. This will give you a Jeep with more power and interior comfort, both important for surviving the day to day grind. If you’re just looking for a secondary vehicle to, we say any year is fine. Thinking about an older Jeep Wrangler?

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All international orders must be placed on our web site. Note: ExtremeTerrain only supports international shipping to those countries listed as options in the international link. If a country is not listed as an option, then we do not offer shipping to it at this time. Unfortunately not all products ExtremeTerrain sells can be shipped to internationally, such as out of stock and pre-order or any other items which cannot be fulfilled immediately will be removed from your order once placed and an appropriate refund issued. For full international shipping details please view our. A manual transmission is just a solid piece of engineering that doesn't want to break. It doesn't care what angle you are at.

It has compression braking that automatics can't touch, and when you are driving it you feel connected to your Jeep. It is a more immersive driving experience. With a manual you only worry if it shifts and does it go. A slipping clutch, bad synchros, grinding bearings, or even loss of fluid will rarely if ever prevent you from getting home.

You can pour engine oil into your manual tranny, pound wooden wedges between your clutch and flywheel, or just grind gears with no disengagement, and still have no troubles finding your way home. With an auto, you have to call a tow truck.

It's really as simple as that. A manual transmission will (almost) always get you home. On that same note, if your battery dies for any reason an automatic transmission will need a jump start to get running, whereas a manual tranny just needs a push start.

The automatic on the other hand won't stall when you are traversing a tricky patch of rocks, makes it really easy to get into off-roading with less experience, and can't be beat in on highway rush hour traffic. I prefer manual transmissions for wheeling. That said, I do own vehicles with automatic transmissions. My Ford F350 has an auto. Because I don't want to work a clutch in stop-and-go traffic or worry about stalling when backing my boat up my snaking, inclined driveway. My Cherokee, YJ, and 47 Willys all had autos, but at some point in time I found myself thinking, 'I'm gonna put a manual transmission in this thing.'

Conversely, I've never once thought, 'Hey, this Jeep needs an automatic!' While driving one of my manual-transmission Jeeps. I just like to feel connected to my Jeep, and I feel an automatic takes that away. While off-roading in an automatic, you have to worry about torque converter flash rpm, stall rpm, shift point rpm and vehicle speed, vacuum and cooling lines, tranny pan leaks, overheating, plugged coolers, uncovered sump pickups, burned fluid, and so much else.

In an emergency maneuver you have to worry about how quickly you can toggle the shifter into Neutral or Reverse and then whether or not the tranny will be sucking air or if it'll actually grab and save your bacon before you roll down a tall cliff and die. Sure, autos can shift faster than a manual, but we're talking off-roading in Jeeps here, not drag racing. Manual transmissions can improve fuel economy, they generally last longer, require less maintenance, create less heat, sap less horsepower, and are typically less expensive and easier to repair and rebuild than their automatic counterparts.

I once sunk a manual transmission into a swamp and it still worked for quite a while, although it was filled with water. An automatic instantly stops working when the oil becomes contaminated. On steep hills the oil pickup on many automatics will starve for oil, halting forward movement. As long as the gears and bearings get a splash of oil now and then, the manual transmission can run upside down all day long if need be. Again, choosing a should still be primarily based on preference. I'm sure you aren't going to purposely run upside down, but if you don't plan to get in potential rollover situations or do 90% of your driving on the street, perhaps an automatic is best for you.

Just remember, you can't undo your decision when you are hanging upside down on the trail. One of the common debates when choosing a Jeep is choosing between an automatic or manual transmission. In addition to the overall on-road affect each has, the concern also revolves around how each is suited when. Automatic Transmission: Automatic transmissions allows for a very relaxed driving experience while off-road and especially while towing in difficult terrain. Allowing you to concentrate on the obstacles ahead, without the need to engage a clutch.

In addition, automatic transmissions provide you with the ability to maintain a slow steady crawling speed, needed for precise adjustments while towing in difficult terrain. Nonetheless, automatic transmissions do have some pro’s and con’s: Pro:. Easier to navigate while on the trail.

Easier to maintain a steady speed/acceleration. Easier to make small incremental movements Con:. Harder to adjust delivery of power to the wheels in certain conditions. More complex of a system to maintain/repair Manual Transmission: a manual transmission is easier to regulate power delivery to the wheels, providing you with the ability to recover or get out of difficult situations easier. It is also a much simpler and straight forward drive train to maintain and repair. Nonetheless, manual transmissions also have some pro’s and con’s: Pro:.

Easier to make small incremental movements/adjustments. Easier system to repair and maintain Con:. Harder and more tiring system to drive in slower speeds, involves a good amount of clutch engagement. Harder to maintain a steady gradual level of speed/power, making precise movements difficult.

Automatic and manual transmissions handle slightly different. An automatic transmission utilizes torque converters to achieve a greater range of gearing, allowing it bounce around to different gears more effortlessly, unlike manual transmissions that utilizes a set gear ratio and require you to manually engage/disengage them at appropriate intervals.

Both transmissions can achieve the same level of gearing at a particular point in the trail, but they have different advantages/disadvantages. An automatic transmission is easier to use on the trail and the torque converter does a great job of selecting the proper gear for the particular demand. However, that transferring of gears comes at a price, which is heat build-up and eventually causes slippage if overly used.

A manual transmission has a set gear ratio that is less problematic but requires more attention when engaging. In addition, since it’s a more set ratio, it requires more attention when setting up, because it will have a dramatic effect on the shifting points, which could be tiring while on the trail. When properly selecting, you can manage most of the trail runs with minimal amount of shifting, ensuring less strain/demand on the transmission and equally important on your knee.

Automatic transmission drawbacks: Automatic transmissions offer a great ease of use both on and off-road. Seamlessly transferring gears automatically depending the specific conditions and demands. The process is great but eliminates the choice of gearing from the driver, relying more on the transmission to make the choice. This relinquishing of power is subjective but could also lead to overheating if the Jeep is on a long, burdening trail. The overheating could then lead to gear slippage and serious damage if overlooked. Manual transmission drawbacks: Manual transmissions allow you to fully engage yourself with the driving experience and provide a great level of feedback of the demands placed on the Jeep and giving you the option to select the proper gear for the particular situation.

This level of choice could be problematic and tiring if you’re on a difficult and long trail. Often times you’ll need a high level of finesse and control to maneuver slowly out of an obstacle. An improper shifting of gears could lead to miss-calculated level of movement that causes damage to the Jeep. In addition, manual transmissions have a set level of gearing with specific shifting points that might work well on the trail, but could be tiring on the road in everyday use. Chrysler Jeep, Jeep Wrangler, Wrangler Unlimited, Rubicon, Wrangler JK, Wrangler TJ, and Wrangler YJ are registered trademarks of Chrysler Group LLC.

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